*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
*** PLEASE NOTE : For 2014 Models, Please Email Us The Actuator Part Number Before Ordering ! There was a VIN split in 2014. The new style 2014+ Motors Can Be Ordered Here -- Click Here --
As many of you already know, the door lock actuators in your 2007-2014 GM vehicle are very unreliable. Most units suffer motor failures which can make locking and unlocking the vehicle very cumbersome. GruvenParts.com has been repairing the faulty GM door lock actuators since 2010. Our new motor is a reliable high torque design with factory correct wiring inputs. Our motor has passed rigorous 35,000 lock/unlock cycle testing runs conducted continuously over the span of 2 full weeks. Please read the repair options listed below before ordering.
Repair Options
Eligible Models
2007-2014 GM models including Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade, Silverado, Suburban, Sierra, Avalanche (and others) as well as Malibu and Cadillac sedans using any of the following door lock actuator part numbers (and very likely many others):
25873487 25876390 15896625 25945737 15896626 25876389 25873488 25945736 20783850 25811735 25876386 25945752 25848878 25866299 25863021 25876382 25955017 22741770 22862025 25876384 25863019 25876388 15896624 25873485 25945754 20783852 25876393 25789215 25876394 25945741 25876387 25873486 25789213 25876385 25945738 25876391 20783859 15896628 25873490 25789219 25876397 25945749 25876383 22785476 22785607 25876451 25843164 22791036 22862238 25876521 25876380 20783844 25945746 25863017 25876398 20777854 20777855 25945739 15896627 25876392 20783860 25873489 25876536 22791011 19210210 25873490 13581405 22865521 25829641 25876452 20772313 20772312 22865519 25876463 22865520 25876451 20772311 25876462 22865518 25840363 20785785 25879295 22862245 22862244 22862238 22862242
Send In
Please Email : Paul@GruvenParts.com for the Send In Address
Please include a copy of your original order invoice and write either "CORE" or "SEND IN FOR REPAIR" on the package.
** Instructions for Installing Motor Yourself **
*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
To change out the motor yourself, do the following :
A. Drill off the 2 rivet heads holding the cable "L" bracket onto the actuator case and remove the cable "L" bracket. The actual rivets themselves stay in place, you are only machining off the rivet heads enough to get the L Bracket off. Some have just used a dremel tool with grinding bit to remove rivet head. Be careful not to damage the surrounding actuator structure. ** Users Note ** Some have drilled the small pilot hole into the rivet BEFORE machining off the rivet head. This can help to ensure the rivet doesnt spin while drilling the pilot hole, since the rivet head is still there to hold it in place. We machine the head of rivet off 1st, but you could also machine pilot hole 1st, either way is acceptable.
B. Put actuator in the locked position (as if door was shut) and remove the torx screws around the perimeter of the case. This step is important because it moves the internal mechanism out of the way and allows for easier removal and installation of the case halves.
C. Remove the top of the case (the motor will come with it). Unplug motor from top case.
D. (Skip this step if buying motor with pinion gear preinstalled). Use a small gear puller (like the Walkera W010 Gear Pinion Puller) to remove the brass pinion gear from the old motor. A puller for 2mm shaft works well, these are readily available on Amazon.com. You can also place the old motor in a vice, and use a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab the back of the gear while tapping with a small hammer to push the gear off the shaft. Do not damage the brass gear as it is reused. Press old gear onto new motor shaft using vice or arbor press.
E. Place the new motor/gear back into the actuator and ensure it meshes with the mating spur gear. Ensure all metal filings are removed from the inside of the case. Please note : our motors marked "CW" go in the drivers side actuators and "CCW" go in the passenger side actuators. It is the same motor front to back, the only difference is side - passenger side is CCW while drivers side is CW.
F. Reinstall top half of actuator case.
G. Reinstall perimeter torx screws. Do not over-torque them, just snug them up firmly.
H. Reattach cable "L" bracket. This can be done via drilling/tapping the remaining rivet shank and installing small screws/washers (we use #6-32 screws with flat washers and loctite). Or you can spot weld the bracket back onto the rivet shank. Some others have used #8-32 screws as this provides a slightly larger tap. Please do not use cheap taps here, the rivet is high strength steel so a high quality tap is recommended. If you own a 4 door, you will be doing this 4 times so invest in a good tap to prevent breaking the tap in the rivet. Tap SLOW using back/forth method until the threads are sufficiently deep, 1/4-1/2" is plenty. Use loctite on the small screws to prevent the L Bracket from becoming dislodged later. As a final suggestion on this step - some have just drilled a shallow hole into the rivet shank and used a self tapping metal screw to bite into the hole. This works as well, and saves you the trouble of tapping a hole into the rivet shank.
*** After the install ***
Please do not reinstall the interior door panel until you have successfully operated the mechanism several dozen times to ensure all was put back together correctly. We recommend installing the repaired actuator, lowering the window, then closing the door. Verify both the interior and exterior door release handles function properly. Then, start the engine, and ensure the vehicle recognizes the door is shut (doesn’t keep the dome light on, or chiming). Operate the power locks a dozen or so times, the lock should lock and unlock rapidly with a forceful "snap" as it moves (the way it did when it was new). Only then should you finalize installation by reinstalling the door panel.
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Posted by harvey g. on 30th Oct 2014
Replaced driver and passenger door lock actuator motors only. Not difficult, but not easy either. Savings was worth it over gm option to replace whole latch assembly. You Tube instructions for door panel removal were very helpful. Would do it again.
Posted by Jon Clark on 20th Oct 2014
Just installed actuator in 30 minutes or so. I watched a YouTube video on how to install. Saved 100 bucks just on the part alone. I'm sure labor at the dealership would be another hundred or two. Only used one day now but has to be at least as good as oem part. Thanks GruvenParts
Posted by Pickleman on 2nd Oct 2014
2008 Avalanche, (both actuators on drivers side) failed within a month of each other. 85000 miles on truck. Got the part number from VID at local Chevy store. Gruven did not have a rebuilt, so I opted for the motor only and did work myself. You should have experience with DIY or be an Applied Technology Teacher where this is a challenge, not an impossibility. Gruven instructions were right on. I drilled out the rivets with 1/8 drill, (bench top drill press is VERY handy) then ground down the the heads of rivets with Dremmel toll and grinding disk. Followed with a 9/64 drill bit to fit a 6-32 x 2 screw, flat washer, and lock nut. For door panel removal, go to Youtube. Front drivers door had the door key lock to contend with in order to get the Actuator out. Not a problem, as long as you release the lock from inside the door panel before taking out the door handle. (or forcing the red holding tab off the arm if you have a long enough screw driver).
Posted by ryan on 22nd Sep 2014
My wife has a 2009 yukon and three door locks went out all within a month of each other. Went to the dealership and of course they say "we know its an issue but GM doesnt warranty it, so it will $200 per door to change out each actuator."
So did so research on Google and found this website. I choose the motor only option and followed the written directions. As far as getting the actuators out of the door, there are plenty of videos on YouTube that's shows the steps.
When it comes to getting the motor out the directions where spot on but it did take a little figuring out how to drill off the rivet heads. I tapped the rivet body with a 6-32 tap and used screws to reattach the L-bracket. I must say that spot welding it would be much easier than tapping it. tapping is very tedious and slow. you cant rush it. I broke the tap in the first hole. But once i did the first door (rear passenger) The second (driver door) was much easier. I still haven't done the Front passenger door but i plan on doing a video for Paul to post to help out future customers.
If you have the problem as I did, this option is the cheapest and it works. Even if you have to send yours to Paul, i say let him fix it, the motors he uses are better quality than GM factory motors.
Thanks Paul.
<<From Gruven>>
Thanks Ryan, let us know if you do the video. Spot welding is certainly an option as well, if you have access to it. For others who cant tap or spot weld, we suggest finding a local shop that can handle it and just bringing to them with our new motors.
Posted by Walt on 14th Sep 2014
I was planning to buy the actuator assemblies for both the passenger rear and driver rear, but decided to install the motors myself. It took me a some time to finish the job, but it was definitely worth it. By the way, the old motors were caked with grease! Also, save yourself some money on a tap and die set. Instead use a 1/8" drill bit and #6-1/2 self tapping screws when reinstalling the bracket. Saved a lot of $$$ doing the work myself! Thanks!
Posted by Unknown on 13th Sep 2014
Easy to install with a little patience ! Worked great and saved a lot of money since I am doing three and just waiting on fourth one.
Posted by Brad Miller on 9th Sep 2014
The GM factory door lock actuators are a pain. I am so thankful that Gruven has finally made a better product than the original. Your product was easy to order, was shipped quickly, and is of much better quality than the factory original. Oh yeah, and it was half the price!
You guys rock! I will be back for more.
Posted by Mike on 5th Sep 2014
Purchased the motor only option and did the repair myself. The instructions were perfect for my needs. It was actually a fun little project. I saved about $140 doing the install myself. Probably double that if I had the dealership do the job turn key. This is a great product. I highly recommend it.
Posted by Lloyd on 4th Sep 2014
Works great. Really great service!
Posted by Unknown on 3rd Sep 2014
Works great! I had already replaced the front driver side actuator a while back so doing the rear one was a breeze... If the other 3 ever fail again, I know where to go for the fix! Thanks to Paul and all at Gruven for this kick-ass, fair priced fix!
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