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Product Description
*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
*** PLEASE NOTE : For 2014 Models, Please Email Us The Actuator Part Number Before Ordering ! There was a VIN split in 2014. The new style 2014+ Motors Can Be Ordered Here -- Click Here --
As many of you already know, the door lock actuators in your 2007-2014 GM vehicle are very unreliable. Most units suffer motor failures which can make locking and unlocking the vehicle very cumbersome. GruvenParts.com has been repairing the faulty GM door lock actuators since 2010. Our new motor is a reliable high torque design with factory correct wiring inputs. Our motor has passed rigorous 35,000 lock/unlock cycle testing runs conducted continuously over the span of 2 full weeks. Please read the repair options listed below before ordering.
Repair Options
- Buy Motor Only and Install it Yourself and Save $$. You can also choose to have the motor shipped with a new brass pinion gear preinstalled - this will save you the hassle of removing the old gear and pressing it onto the the new motor shaft. Reference the repair instructions listed at the bottom of this page or watch the youtube installation video. Choose passenger side or drivers side from the drop down menu. The motors are the same front to back, but they are different drivers side to passenger side.
- Send Us Your Actuator for us to Repair : Send your actuator along with copy of your invoice (address will be provided after order). We will perform the repair and send it back to you, usually within 1-2 weeks
- If you are located near Atlanta, we have a Certified GM Master Technician who can perform the installation on your vehicle. Please email Paul@GruvenParts.com for details.
Eligible Models
2007-2014 GM models including Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade, Silverado, Suburban, Sierra, Avalanche (and others) as well as Malibu and Cadillac sedans using any of the following door lock actuator part numbers (and very likely many others):
25873487 25876390 15896625 25945737 15896626 25876389 25873488 25945736 20783850 25811735 25876386 25945752 25848878 25866299 25863021 25876382 25955017 22741770 22862025 25876384 25863019 25876388 15896624 25873485 25945754 20783852 25876393 25789215 25876394 25945741 25876387 25873486 25789213 25876385 25945738 25876391 20783859 15896628 25873490 25789219 25876397 25945749 25876383 22785476 22785607 25876451 25843164 22791036 22862238 25876521 25876380 20783844 25945746 25863017 25876398 20777854 20777855 25945739 15896627 25876392 20783860 25873489 25876536 22791011 19210210 25873490 13581405 22865521 25829641 25876452 20772313 20772312 22865519 25876463 22865520 25876451 20772311 25876462 22865518 25840363 20785785 25879295 22862245 22862244 22862238 22862242
Send In
Please Email : Paul@GruvenParts.com for the Send In Address
Please include a copy of your original order invoice and write either "CORE" or "SEND IN FOR REPAIR" on the package.
** Instructions for Installing Motor Yourself **
*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
To change out the motor yourself, do the following :
A. Drill off the 2 rivet heads holding the cable "L" bracket onto the actuator case and remove the cable "L" bracket. The actual rivets themselves stay in place, you are only machining off the rivet heads enough to get the L Bracket off. Some have just used a dremel tool with grinding bit to remove rivet head. Be careful not to damage the surrounding actuator structure. ** Users Note ** Some have drilled the small pilot hole into the rivet BEFORE machining off the rivet head. This can help to ensure the rivet doesnt spin while drilling the pilot hole, since the rivet head is still there to hold it in place. We machine the head of rivet off 1st, but you could also machine pilot hole 1st, either way is acceptable.
B. Put actuator in the locked position (as if door was shut) and remove the torx screws around the perimeter of the case. This step is important because it moves the internal mechanism out of the way and allows for easier removal and installation of the case halves.
C. Remove the top of the case (the motor will come with it). Unplug motor from top case.
D. (Skip this step if buying motor with pinion gear preinstalled). Use a small gear puller (like the Walkera W010 Gear Pinion Puller) to remove the brass pinion gear from the old motor. A puller for 2mm shaft works well, these are readily available on Amazon.com. You can also place the old motor in a vice, and use a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab the back of the gear while tapping with a small hammer to push the gear off the shaft. Do not damage the brass gear as it is reused. Press old gear onto new motor shaft using vice or arbor press.
E. Place the new motor/gear back into the actuator and ensure it meshes with the mating spur gear. Ensure all metal filings are removed from the inside of the case. Please note : our motors marked "CW" go in the drivers side actuators and "CCW" go in the passenger side actuators. It is the same motor front to back, the only difference is side - passenger side is CCW while drivers side is CW.
F. Reinstall top half of actuator case.
G. Reinstall perimeter torx screws. Do not over-torque them, just snug them up firmly.
H. Reattach cable "L" bracket. This can be done via drilling/tapping the remaining rivet shank and installing small screws/washers (we use #6-32 screws with flat washers and loctite). Or you can spot weld the bracket back onto the rivet shank. Some others have used #8-32 screws as this provides a slightly larger tap. Please do not use cheap taps here, the rivet is high strength steel so a high quality tap is recommended. If you own a 4 door, you will be doing this 4 times so invest in a good tap to prevent breaking the tap in the rivet. Tap SLOW using back/forth method until the threads are sufficiently deep, 1/4-1/2" is plenty. Use loctite on the small screws to prevent the L Bracket from becoming dislodged later. As a final suggestion on this step - some have just drilled a shallow hole into the rivet shank and used a self tapping metal screw to bite into the hole. This works as well, and saves you the trouble of tapping a hole into the rivet shank.
*** After the install ***
Please do not reinstall the interior door panel until you have successfully operated the mechanism several dozen times to ensure all was put back together correctly. We recommend installing the repaired actuator, lowering the window, then closing the door. Verify both the interior and exterior door release handles function properly. Then, start the engine, and ensure the vehicle recognizes the door is shut (doesn’t keep the dome light on, or chiming). Operate the power locks a dozen or so times, the lock should lock and unlock rapidly with a forceful "snap" as it moves (the way it did when it was new). Only then should you finalize installation by reinstalling the door panel.
Product Reviews
Previous | Showing reviews 191-200 of 228 | Next
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Good Product
Posted by Syd on 10th Mar 2015
I installed this motor on the drivers side door an a 2008 Silverado. The installation was smooth and the product works great.The hardest part for me was removing the gear from the old motor.It was just a little harder than I expected. I ended up using a small torch to heat the gear and pried it up with a couple of screwdrivers, worked fine. I also bought a spare to replace the passenger side when it fails.
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better than doorman so far
Posted by Rouany on 21st Feb 2015
i installed this motor on my right rear door and on the front right i changed the whole actuator the one i buy from a local auto parts for 135 dollars and every once in a while i have to push the button twice to make it lock or unlock, that never happens to the one i rebuilt and it cost me about 35 dollars including shipping
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Not A Hard Project, Great Product
Posted by Unknown on 23rd Jan 2015
Watched the UTube video to remove the door panel and remove/replace lock actuator on a 2008 Suburban rear door. Drilled out rivets and used small self tapper screws I had on hand to reassemble. Some plastic parts fell out when I disassembled due to sticking to top assembly from lubrication. Easy to figure out how they went back in. Based on previous comments used a pair of cheap wire strippers with flat body and vise to remove the gear. Placed the wire stripper center slots around shaft under gear and laid in vise for support then tapped out shaft on old motor. Used vise to press gear on new motor after starting by hand to make sure splines were lined up. Project took about an hour taking my time. Could do it again in less than 30 minutes.
-- Response from GruvenParts --
Thanks for the review. Yes a vice does certainly help to hold the old motor and good tip for removing the old pinion gear off the old motor and pressing it onto the new motor.
Please put the actuator into the LOCKED position before disassembling the case halves, as this will make it much easier to avoid disturbing the internal parts of the actuator. The locked position is when the latch is fully closed, as it the door were shut and the metal latch were closed around the door jamb pin.
As always call or email me if any questions arise, we've repaired hundreds of these so we can always help out!
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Better than new !!!
Posted by C J on 19th Jan 2015
Replaced the motor in the right rear door lock actuator on a 2009 Malibu,the worst part of the job was drilling and tapping the rivets . Took a few hours but it was time well spent,would do it again,Do not attempt without a drill press.
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Project worthy of my time
Posted by Frank Patrick on 29th Dec 2014
Anyone saying this was easy most likely has a fine collection of tools and knows how to use them. Simply put I enjoy learning how to fix my vehicle, home while saving my $$$ for tasty booze, food and gambling. This was a great project since total cost to repair the lock actuator saved me over $300.
Worthy saving for the things I enjoy.
First I was shocked when I received the tiny actuator... It's a small slot car motor. I would read Walt's description posted Sept. 14,
I also recommend 1) watch the Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gx3M90X_S_s 2) ensure you have the Torx set to include the T30 mentioned. 3) a Dremmel with thin grind wheel (cuts the riviet like butter). 4) use the 1/8" drill bit as suggested below with #6 1/2" self tapping screws with lock washers.
My vice was indispensible in removing the brass gear from the old actuator and repressing the gear via th splines on shaft of the new actuator. I started with needle nose pliers to pry the gear with little success. I found that uniform force could be applied using wire strippers placed underneath the gear, tapping with a hammer and working it back and forth from side to side.
once it was off, placing the new actuator end to end with the gear lined up in the vice just snug fo I could rotate it till I could feel the splines line up, then tightened the vice to press it evenly on.
The gear was the most challenging, perhaps a gear puller as suggested would be a wise investment if I have to do this again....
Frank
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Great Big Money Saver
Posted by John R Keeven on 28th Dec 2014
I And quite a different review to write, I'm 81 years old and ordered the door lock Actuator for both the driver side and rear
Driver side (motors only)
And installed them both in about two hours on my 2008 cadillac escalade ext with out any special tools and they work great.
SAVED around $500 from what Cadillac quoted me.
Thanks Paul
John Keeven)
-- response --
Thanks for the review John! We appreciate your business and please feel free to call or email me if any questions arise. Have a great rest of your holiday!
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GM Door Lock Actuator - Motor Change Out
Posted by Ken on 9th Dec 2014
This was a very simple process and saved me a lot of money. The directions on the web are very clear. Total process change out took about 20 minutes. I removed the back of the (OLD MOTOR) with a pair of channel locks. Placed the (OLD MOTOR) on a 7/8 socket and used a small punch to drive the old shaft down through the brass gear. Note, your not going to use the old motor for anything, so this is an easy way to remove the gear without damaging it.
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What a relief!!!
Posted by Dave on 26th Nov 2014
Finished replacing the motors on both my Suburban rear door locks. Very frustrating yet rewarding job. My 2 cents--make sure when you drill out those rivets and either tap or use self tapping screws, make sure those holes are perfectly centered!!!
Also, be very careful to reassemble the case after you put the new motors in. There are many plastic cams, gears, levers, etc, that can get knocked out of place real easy, making the actuator NOT work properly.
>>Gruven Response>>
Thanks Dave for the post. Reassembly is much easier if you rotate the latch into the lock position before putting the top case back on. Glad you got it all back together, shouldnt give you trouble anymore! Let us know how they do.
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excellent product
Posted by Unknown on 5th Nov 2014
I've just installed the door actuator motor but it's working fine. It's an excellent alternative to the highway robbery at the GM parts dept. my only suggestion is for gruven to add the gear on the motor but it's my own fault for spending an hour and a half w a flashlight on my garage floor..at least it got swept clean. It was easier for me to grind off the head of the rivet w my Dremel tool on the l bracket than to drill it out.
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lock actuator repair
Posted by scott on 4th Nov 2014
worked like a charm just followed the directions took my time and it went together pretty good ..............saved myself a lot of money...............
<<Gruven Response>
Thanks for reviewing, Scott. Please let us know if you need anything more from us, we appreciate you being a customer and hopefully you will not ever need to worry about door locks on your GM again.