*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
*** PLEASE NOTE : For 2014 Models, Please Email Us The Actuator Part Number Before Ordering ! There was a VIN split in 2014. The new style 2014+ Motors Can Be Ordered Here -- Click Here --
As many of you already know, the door lock actuators in your 2007-2014 GM vehicle are very unreliable. Most units suffer motor failures which can make locking and unlocking the vehicle very cumbersome. GruvenParts.com has been repairing the faulty GM door lock actuators since 2010. Our new motor is a reliable high torque design with factory correct wiring inputs. Our motor has passed rigorous 35,000 lock/unlock cycle testing runs conducted continuously over the span of 2 full weeks. Please read the repair options listed below before ordering.
Repair Options
Eligible Models
2007-2014 GM models including Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade, Silverado, Suburban, Sierra, Avalanche (and others) as well as Malibu and Cadillac sedans using any of the following door lock actuator part numbers (and very likely many others):
25873487 25876390 15896625 25945737 15896626 25876389 25873488 25945736 20783850 25811735 25876386 25945752 25848878 25866299 25863021 25876382 25955017 22741770 22862025 25876384 25863019 25876388 15896624 25873485 25945754 20783852 25876393 25789215 25876394 25945741 25876387 25873486 25789213 25876385 25945738 25876391 20783859 15896628 25873490 25789219 25876397 25945749 25876383 22785476 22785607 25876451 25843164 22791036 22862238 25876521 25876380 20783844 25945746 25863017 25876398 20777854 20777855 25945739 15896627 25876392 20783860 25873489 25876536 22791011 19210210 25873490 13581405 22865521 25829641 25876452 20772313 20772312 22865519 25876463 22865520 25876451 20772311 25876462 22865518 25840363 20785785 25879295 22862245 22862244 22862238 22862242
Send In
Please Email : Paul@GruvenParts.com for the Send In Address
Please include a copy of your original order invoice and write either "CORE" or "SEND IN FOR REPAIR" on the package.
** Instructions for Installing Motor Yourself **
*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
To change out the motor yourself, do the following :
A. Drill off the 2 rivet heads holding the cable "L" bracket onto the actuator case and remove the cable "L" bracket. The actual rivets themselves stay in place, you are only machining off the rivet heads enough to get the L Bracket off. Some have just used a dremel tool with grinding bit to remove rivet head. Be careful not to damage the surrounding actuator structure. ** Users Note ** Some have drilled the small pilot hole into the rivet BEFORE machining off the rivet head. This can help to ensure the rivet doesnt spin while drilling the pilot hole, since the rivet head is still there to hold it in place. We machine the head of rivet off 1st, but you could also machine pilot hole 1st, either way is acceptable.
B. Put actuator in the locked position (as if door was shut) and remove the torx screws around the perimeter of the case. This step is important because it moves the internal mechanism out of the way and allows for easier removal and installation of the case halves.
C. Remove the top of the case (the motor will come with it). Unplug motor from top case.
D. (Skip this step if buying motor with pinion gear preinstalled). Use a small gear puller (like the Walkera W010 Gear Pinion Puller) to remove the brass pinion gear from the old motor. A puller for 2mm shaft works well, these are readily available on Amazon.com. You can also place the old motor in a vice, and use a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab the back of the gear while tapping with a small hammer to push the gear off the shaft. Do not damage the brass gear as it is reused. Press old gear onto new motor shaft using vice or arbor press.
E. Place the new motor/gear back into the actuator and ensure it meshes with the mating spur gear. Ensure all metal filings are removed from the inside of the case. Please note : our motors marked "CW" go in the drivers side actuators and "CCW" go in the passenger side actuators. It is the same motor front to back, the only difference is side - passenger side is CCW while drivers side is CW.
F. Reinstall top half of actuator case.
G. Reinstall perimeter torx screws. Do not over-torque them, just snug them up firmly.
H. Reattach cable "L" bracket. This can be done via drilling/tapping the remaining rivet shank and installing small screws/washers (we use #6-32 screws with flat washers and loctite). Or you can spot weld the bracket back onto the rivet shank. Some others have used #8-32 screws as this provides a slightly larger tap. Please do not use cheap taps here, the rivet is high strength steel so a high quality tap is recommended. If you own a 4 door, you will be doing this 4 times so invest in a good tap to prevent breaking the tap in the rivet. Tap SLOW using back/forth method until the threads are sufficiently deep, 1/4-1/2" is plenty. Use loctite on the small screws to prevent the L Bracket from becoming dislodged later. As a final suggestion on this step - some have just drilled a shallow hole into the rivet shank and used a self tapping metal screw to bite into the hole. This works as well, and saves you the trouble of tapping a hole into the rivet shank.
*** After the install ***
Please do not reinstall the interior door panel until you have successfully operated the mechanism several dozen times to ensure all was put back together correctly. We recommend installing the repaired actuator, lowering the window, then closing the door. Verify both the interior and exterior door release handles function properly. Then, start the engine, and ensure the vehicle recognizes the door is shut (doesn’t keep the dome light on, or chiming). Operate the power locks a dozen or so times, the lock should lock and unlock rapidly with a forceful "snap" as it moves (the way it did when it was new). Only then should you finalize installation by reinstalling the door panel.
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Posted by Unknown on 9th Jun 2020
This is actually the second motor I purchased. The 1st was for my rear passenger door ('08 Tahoe). As soon as I ordered it the lock started working again & did so for the next 6 months or so. Then it died so I finally got around to replacing it. The video they provide access to was invaluable and made the installation a breeze. One thing I would add is to keep the actuator housing clean during the drilling & grinding process cover it with blue painters tape. As soon as I got the motor in, the front passenger door quit working so I ordered a 2nd motor.....& just like the first one as soon as I ordered the 2nd one it started working again....ugh! Guess I'll install it in about 6 months.....In any event it works like a charm.
Posted by Unknown on 7th May 2020
Sent my actuator in to have it repaired, got it back very quickly. Only had a small hiccup that had to deal with and Paul had no problem with helping me. The actuator works great. Thank you Gruven parts. Saved me tons of money.
Posted by Unknown on 29th Jul 2019
Replacement motor works great! This is the second motor I had to replace. GM didn't do well with the original motor.
Posted by Unknown on 12th Jul 2019
I recently completed the installation of all four, door lock actuator motors on a 2009 Cadillac CTS. The installation was a complete success and all four doors are fully functional again. I highly recommend these motors. Be sure to watch the installation video.
I chose to purchase just the motors without the brass gears pre-installed. Be aware that those gears are a very tight press fit on the original motors and tough to remove without damaging them.
I used a drill press with a new drill bit designed for hard metal to drill the holes in the rivets followed by the thread tap method. I then ground off the rivet heads and removed the "L" brackets. Be aware that the tapping is a very slow and tedious process, but I managed to tap all eight rivets with a single tap.
Reassembly was straight forward.
This repair process is a great money saver for those willing and able to tackle the job. Thanks Gruven Parts for creating this option!
Posted by Unknown on 1st Jun 2019
Just put in the new motor (with gear pre-installed) tonight...followed the YouTube video. Everything works perfectly now! :)
Posted by Chuck on 29th May 2019
I eventually had to replace the driver and passenger side door lock motors. The instruction videos were superb. The difficulty level is easy if you are a "do it yourselfer". Shipping was fast and everything came as expected.
Posted by Unknown on 4th May 2019
The new door lock motor works great. But now when I put the truck in gear I get chiming and a message that the passenger door is open. How do I fix this problem?
-- Response from GruvenParts --
It sounds like you dont have 1 of the internal components properly seated within the door lock ctuator. You will need to open it back up and position the internal components correctly, then seal it back up. Once you repeat this, please plug it into the wiring harness BEFORE reinstalling into the door, and verify the fault has been cleared. It may help to rotate the latch into the shut position, as that pulls away the internal components from the case perimeter, and makes it easier to put it back together without disturbing any of the internals. As always, call me or email me, we will guide you through it 100%.
Paul
Posted by Rory on 18th Feb 2019
Wow, what a money saver this was! I had bought just the two left side motors and yes it is time consuming but if your handy with tools and not afraid to get your hands dirty this is a fun project. I lost 2 hours due to the brass gear went flying out of the garage and into the dirt, so if you're worried about losing the gear order the motor with it. I will tell my fellow truck owners about this.
Posted by Gary McClain on 23rd Sep 2018
Chevy, Ford, GMC, Dodge, all the manufactures only care about profit, and use inferior parts any place they can. Thankfully, aftermarket places like Gruvenparts offer replacement parts that stand up to the test of time. Around 30 dollars, and 45 mins of my time fixed my problem. The dealership would have cost me somewhere north of 300 dollars to fix the same problem, and they would have used the same junk parts that failed to begin with. I have now freplaced the motor for the lock actuators on all four doors. None of the motors from gruvenparts have failed, and some are several years old. That’s a far cry from the manufacturer, which may fail anytime after 6 months.
Posted by Larry Etienne on 10th Sep 2018
I found that a drill press helped a lot drilling out the rivet heads. Keep the case closed up during drilling. When I started tapping the hole with a 8-32 tap, I had to open the case to hold the rivet from turning with a small vise grip. Used 1/4 inch socket head bolts with washers to put the case back together. The new motor is very fast and strong. The old motors would fail if any of the manual lock linkage was binding.
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