*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
*** PLEASE NOTE : For 2014 Models, Please Email Us The Actuator Part Number Before Ordering ! There was a VIN split in 2014. The new style 2014+ Motors Can Be Ordered Here -- Click Here --
As many of you already know, the door lock actuators in your 2007-2014 GM vehicle are very unreliable. Most units suffer motor failures which can make locking and unlocking the vehicle very cumbersome. GruvenParts.com has been repairing the faulty GM door lock actuators since 2010. Our new motor is a reliable high torque design with factory correct wiring inputs. Our motor has passed rigorous 35,000 lock/unlock cycle testing runs conducted continuously over the span of 2 full weeks. Please read the repair options listed below before ordering.
Repair Options
Eligible Models
2007-2014 GM models including Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade, Silverado, Suburban, Sierra, Avalanche (and others) as well as Malibu and Cadillac sedans using any of the following door lock actuator part numbers (and very likely many others):
25873487 25876390 15896625 25945737 15896626 25876389 25873488 25945736 20783850 25811735 25876386 25945752 25848878 25866299 25863021 25876382 25955017 22741770 22862025 25876384 25863019 25876388 15896624 25873485 25945754 20783852 25876393 25789215 25876394 25945741 25876387 25873486 25789213 25876385 25945738 25876391 20783859 15896628 25873490 25789219 25876397 25945749 25876383 22785476 22785607 25876451 25843164 22791036 22862238 25876521 25876380 20783844 25945746 25863017 25876398 20777854 20777855 25945739 15896627 25876392 20783860 25873489 25876536 22791011 19210210 25873490 13581405 22865521 25829641 25876452 20772313 20772312 22865519 25876463 22865520 25876451 20772311 25876462 22865518 25840363 20785785 25879295 22862245 22862244 22862238 22862242
Send In
Please Email : Paul@GruvenParts.com for the Send In Address
Please include a copy of your original order invoice and write either "CORE" or "SEND IN FOR REPAIR" on the package.
** Instructions for Installing Motor Yourself **
*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
To change out the motor yourself, do the following :
A. Drill off the 2 rivet heads holding the cable "L" bracket onto the actuator case and remove the cable "L" bracket. The actual rivets themselves stay in place, you are only machining off the rivet heads enough to get the L Bracket off. Some have just used a dremel tool with grinding bit to remove rivet head. Be careful not to damage the surrounding actuator structure. ** Users Note ** Some have drilled the small pilot hole into the rivet BEFORE machining off the rivet head. This can help to ensure the rivet doesnt spin while drilling the pilot hole, since the rivet head is still there to hold it in place. We machine the head of rivet off 1st, but you could also machine pilot hole 1st, either way is acceptable.
B. Put actuator in the locked position (as if door was shut) and remove the torx screws around the perimeter of the case. This step is important because it moves the internal mechanism out of the way and allows for easier removal and installation of the case halves.
C. Remove the top of the case (the motor will come with it). Unplug motor from top case.
D. (Skip this step if buying motor with pinion gear preinstalled). Use a small gear puller (like the Walkera W010 Gear Pinion Puller) to remove the brass pinion gear from the old motor. A puller for 2mm shaft works well, these are readily available on Amazon.com. You can also place the old motor in a vice, and use a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab the back of the gear while tapping with a small hammer to push the gear off the shaft. Do not damage the brass gear as it is reused. Press old gear onto new motor shaft using vice or arbor press.
E. Place the new motor/gear back into the actuator and ensure it meshes with the mating spur gear. Ensure all metal filings are removed from the inside of the case. Please note : our motors marked "CW" go in the drivers side actuators and "CCW" go in the passenger side actuators. It is the same motor front to back, the only difference is side - passenger side is CCW while drivers side is CW.
F. Reinstall top half of actuator case.
G. Reinstall perimeter torx screws. Do not over-torque them, just snug them up firmly.
H. Reattach cable "L" bracket. This can be done via drilling/tapping the remaining rivet shank and installing small screws/washers (we use #6-32 screws with flat washers and loctite). Or you can spot weld the bracket back onto the rivet shank. Some others have used #8-32 screws as this provides a slightly larger tap. Please do not use cheap taps here, the rivet is high strength steel so a high quality tap is recommended. If you own a 4 door, you will be doing this 4 times so invest in a good tap to prevent breaking the tap in the rivet. Tap SLOW using back/forth method until the threads are sufficiently deep, 1/4-1/2" is plenty. Use loctite on the small screws to prevent the L Bracket from becoming dislodged later. As a final suggestion on this step - some have just drilled a shallow hole into the rivet shank and used a self tapping metal screw to bite into the hole. This works as well, and saves you the trouble of tapping a hole into the rivet shank.
*** After the install ***
Please do not reinstall the interior door panel until you have successfully operated the mechanism several dozen times to ensure all was put back together correctly. We recommend installing the repaired actuator, lowering the window, then closing the door. Verify both the interior and exterior door release handles function properly. Then, start the engine, and ensure the vehicle recognizes the door is shut (doesn’t keep the dome light on, or chiming). Operate the power locks a dozen or so times, the lock should lock and unlock rapidly with a forceful "snap" as it moves (the way it did when it was new). Only then should you finalize installation by reinstalling the door panel.
Previous | Showing reviews 171-180 of 228 | Next
Posted by Unknown on 17th Jun 2015
Great replacement/upgrade for bad gm door lock motor!!
Posted by Bill on 7th Jun 2015
Great repair, first door took awhile getting the right tools to do the job, second door (drivers) took less then an hour. Use good quality drill bits and 6-32 tap.
Posted by Chris on 3rd Jun 2015
The motors were delivered very promptly. With one installed so far, it has worked as promised.
The instructions are correct, although step A doesn't mention what a bear it is to remove the L bracket. But, that could be just my case as I only ground off the heads, opting not drilling them out. The rivet, as it's punched, pooched out against a bevel on the bracket, holding it pretty strong. However, that's not an issue with Gruven Parts.
Over all, great option for those that aren't averse to tinkering with the inner workings of electrical gadgets to save a lot of money.
This is truly what DIY is for.
-- Response --
Thanks Chris. Yes you will need to fully remove the heads of the rivets to get bracket off, but do not drill out the entire rivet. Just remove the head, and it is OK to remove a bit of the L Bracket material as you will be using a washer under the head of the screw to put re-attach. Thanks for review and glad you got the actuators working reliably !
Paul@GruvenParts.com
Posted by Unknown on 26th May 2015
Great product, fixed all 4 of my doors! Some tips for assembly: I found it easiest to grind off the heads of the rivets with my Dremel then weld the bracket back in place. Of course if you don't weld drilling and tapping as others have mentioned will be necessary. I tried self tapping screws first, but they didn't work for me. Grinding and welding was faster than drilling and tapping. someone's tip about using pliers to pry the gears off worked like a charm.
Posted by David on 12th May 2015
Motors worked great once installed. Not sure if anyone else had an issue, but i had trouble tapping the hole after drilling off the rivet head. The rivet would just spin. I would suggest maybe drilling and tapping the hole before drilling off the rivet head. A huge savings by doing it yourself! Just have patience if you have no mechanical experience.
My door locks just sound tougher now!!
Posted by Bart on 9th May 2015
The door locks went out pretty fast on my 08 Suburban. I figured they were just stuck because they were getting power and seemed to move, slightly. The locks never recovered. 4 to be exact. Having small kids that could not open the locks concerned me greatly. I needed a fix and the dealer maintenance shop was not the answer! After finding my way to Gruven, I bought four motors. I read the directions and began work. The first lock took 1 hour, the second 3o minutes, the last one 10 minutes. The learning curve was fast. I agree from other posters a puller device ,tap kit and screws would be a good addition to the motor option. As for me I used a pair of vice grips to hold the motor, used a set of pliers with wire cutter to push the the brass gear off. (Placing the wire cutter portion of the pliers between the motor and the gear, then squeezing the pliers toward the motor shaft. As the pliers close the brass gear is pushed off with no damage). I drilled the head off the rivet, then continued drilling with a smaller diameter bit 1/2 inch. I used self tapping #6 screws. All I can say is wow, my wife loves me again and the door locks open with a bang! I highly recommend Gruven's motors. Very satisfied.
Posted by Unknown on 6th May 2015
To repair a fail power door lock GM would have you purchase the entire door lock assemble for between $125 to $145. All that is wrong is a small electric motor. The Gruven replacement motor is a money saver. Once you drill out 2 rivets, the lock comes apart and the motor almost falls out. I rated this product as a 4 and not a 5 only because I had difficulty removing the small gear. I bought a small gear puller as suggested by Gruven but it could not puller the gear. I had to cut the motor shaft and drove the gear out with a punch. Why not just supply the motor with a new gear already installed?
---
Response
--
We are working on the gear now. Its a special gear that requires tooling, not readily available. We should have the gear done in about 4 more weeks and will include that as an option when buying, along with the correct drill and tap kit to make this easier. Thanks for feedback, we are listening !
Posted by Unknown on 28th Apr 2015
Good instructions. I changed two motors and the actuators work fine. Drilling off rivet heads and tap drilling is best done on a drill press if you have access to one. I broke a 6-32 tap on my fourth hole and ended up using an 8-32 in my repair of that actuator. The rivet was large enough for an 8-32 screw. (Also 8-32 taps don't break nearly as easily as 6-32s.)
If these motors are as good as advertised I'll never have to remove an actuator again. That will justify the time it took to do the job.
Posted by Unknown on 22nd Apr 2015
Does exactly what it is made to do. Not hard at all. Only thing I would recommend is to have your replacement screws before you start. If you are tack welding, be careful not to remove to much material as this makes it hard to weld. Would be great if they came with the right size screws with lock washers and a pamplet that tells you the correct size drill bit and tap to use. Great motor!
-- Response --
Thanks for the review. We are now working on a kit which will include the specially made gear as well as screws, drill bit and tap to allow easier installation. This will take about 4 more weeks to get, and we will include instructions as you requested. Thanks for the suggestion and please stay tuned for this.
Posted by David W. Splinter on 21st Apr 2015
Replacement motor great buy. fast shipping, packaged well. Not real hard to install. Should include instructions with motor only.
ABOUT SSL CERTIFICATES |