*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
*** PLEASE NOTE : For 2014 Models, Please Email Us The Actuator Part Number Before Ordering ! There was a VIN split in 2014. The new style 2014+ Motors Can Be Ordered Here -- Click Here --
As many of you already know, the door lock actuators in your 2007-2014 GM vehicle are very unreliable. Most units suffer motor failures which can make locking and unlocking the vehicle very cumbersome. GruvenParts.com has been repairing the faulty GM door lock actuators since 2010. Our new motor is a reliable high torque design with factory correct wiring inputs. Our motor has passed rigorous 35,000 lock/unlock cycle testing runs conducted continuously over the span of 2 full weeks. Please read the repair options listed below before ordering.
Repair Options
Eligible Models
2007-2014 GM models including Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade, Silverado, Suburban, Sierra, Avalanche (and others) as well as Malibu and Cadillac sedans using any of the following door lock actuator part numbers (and very likely many others):
25873487 25876390 15896625 25945737 15896626 25876389 25873488 25945736 20783850 25811735 25876386 25945752 25848878 25866299 25863021 25876382 25955017 22741770 22862025 25876384 25863019 25876388 15896624 25873485 25945754 20783852 25876393 25789215 25876394 25945741 25876387 25873486 25789213 25876385 25945738 25876391 20783859 15896628 25873490 25789219 25876397 25945749 25876383 22785476 22785607 25876451 25843164 22791036 22862238 25876521 25876380 20783844 25945746 25863017 25876398 20777854 20777855 25945739 15896627 25876392 20783860 25873489 25876536 22791011 19210210 25873490 13581405 22865521 25829641 25876452 20772313 20772312 22865519 25876463 22865520 25876451 20772311 25876462 22865518 25840363 20785785 25879295 22862245 22862244 22862238 22862242
Send In
Please Email : Paul@GruvenParts.com for the Send In Address
Please include a copy of your original order invoice and write either "CORE" or "SEND IN FOR REPAIR" on the package.
** Instructions for Installing Motor Yourself **
*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
To change out the motor yourself, do the following :
A. Drill off the 2 rivet heads holding the cable "L" bracket onto the actuator case and remove the cable "L" bracket. The actual rivets themselves stay in place, you are only machining off the rivet heads enough to get the L Bracket off. Some have just used a dremel tool with grinding bit to remove rivet head. Be careful not to damage the surrounding actuator structure. ** Users Note ** Some have drilled the small pilot hole into the rivet BEFORE machining off the rivet head. This can help to ensure the rivet doesnt spin while drilling the pilot hole, since the rivet head is still there to hold it in place. We machine the head of rivet off 1st, but you could also machine pilot hole 1st, either way is acceptable.
B. Put actuator in the locked position (as if door was shut) and remove the torx screws around the perimeter of the case. This step is important because it moves the internal mechanism out of the way and allows for easier removal and installation of the case halves.
C. Remove the top of the case (the motor will come with it). Unplug motor from top case.
D. (Skip this step if buying motor with pinion gear preinstalled). Use a small gear puller (like the Walkera W010 Gear Pinion Puller) to remove the brass pinion gear from the old motor. A puller for 2mm shaft works well, these are readily available on Amazon.com. You can also place the old motor in a vice, and use a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab the back of the gear while tapping with a small hammer to push the gear off the shaft. Do not damage the brass gear as it is reused. Press old gear onto new motor shaft using vice or arbor press.
E. Place the new motor/gear back into the actuator and ensure it meshes with the mating spur gear. Ensure all metal filings are removed from the inside of the case. Please note : our motors marked "CW" go in the drivers side actuators and "CCW" go in the passenger side actuators. It is the same motor front to back, the only difference is side - passenger side is CCW while drivers side is CW.
F. Reinstall top half of actuator case.
G. Reinstall perimeter torx screws. Do not over-torque them, just snug them up firmly.
H. Reattach cable "L" bracket. This can be done via drilling/tapping the remaining rivet shank and installing small screws/washers (we use #6-32 screws with flat washers and loctite). Or you can spot weld the bracket back onto the rivet shank. Some others have used #8-32 screws as this provides a slightly larger tap. Please do not use cheap taps here, the rivet is high strength steel so a high quality tap is recommended. If you own a 4 door, you will be doing this 4 times so invest in a good tap to prevent breaking the tap in the rivet. Tap SLOW using back/forth method until the threads are sufficiently deep, 1/4-1/2" is plenty. Use loctite on the small screws to prevent the L Bracket from becoming dislodged later. As a final suggestion on this step - some have just drilled a shallow hole into the rivet shank and used a self tapping metal screw to bite into the hole. This works as well, and saves you the trouble of tapping a hole into the rivet shank.
*** After the install ***
Please do not reinstall the interior door panel until you have successfully operated the mechanism several dozen times to ensure all was put back together correctly. We recommend installing the repaired actuator, lowering the window, then closing the door. Verify both the interior and exterior door release handles function properly. Then, start the engine, and ensure the vehicle recognizes the door is shut (doesn’t keep the dome light on, or chiming). Operate the power locks a dozen or so times, the lock should lock and unlock rapidly with a forceful "snap" as it moves (the way it did when it was new). Only then should you finalize installation by reinstalling the door panel.
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Posted by Mark on 3rd Aug 2015
After living with the rear passenger door not working on my 2009 Silverado it didn't take long for me to look for a solution when the front seat passenger door lock quit. And when I seen how much it was going to cost to buy the parts from the dealer I was hoping there was a cheaper solution. So GLAD I found your site and great installation instructions. I went the drilling and tapping route with all the plastic I didn't want to take a chance on damaging anything by spot welding.
Posted by Brent on 28th Jul 2015
I replaced 2 rear door lock motors. Install takes some time, but instructions on site are excellent. I went with the spot weld instead of drilling and tapping. Great product and excellent service from Gruven parts.
Local GM dealer quoted $190 parts $118 labor ($308 per door + tax).
-- Response from Gruven --
Thanks Brent. Dont forget to mention GM quoted you $308 per door to give you another faulty actuator that would not have lasted, which is why all of us are in this predicament. C'mon GM, we all hope you didnt make the 2015's with these same terrible actuator motors!
Seems like many are using the spot weld option - which is awesome if you have the welding tools. For those that do not, please remember you can drill a small pilot hole and just use self tapping screws. That saves you from having to tap a proper hole, and works well for in the field repairs.
Posted by Unknown on 25th Jul 2015
I own a body shop and just finished a 2008 Silverado all 4 doors with these motors with the gear installed. They worked great we decided to weld our l brackets back on it was a lot less time consuming. Did all 4 doors in less than a hour and a half. Great product
Posted by Matt on 22nd Jul 2015
The hardest part, if you want to call it hard, was grinding the rivet heads off to remove the L bracket. That took more time than actually replacing the motor! Put it back together (used rivets instead of machine screws or welding), tested, put back in the door; works perfectly!
Now, on to the back door; which should take less time than the front.
Posted by Tim Caldwell on 12th Jul 2015
Love my Tahoe, but can't stand the cheap Chinese made parts!!! At $400/door actuator at the dealership, I couldn't afford to have it repaired, but thanks to Gruvenparts.com and their directions I repaired all four doors for just under $100!!! First door took awhile, but the next three were a breeze. I would highly recommend purchasing the motors only, as the gear is relatively easy to remove and replace on the new motors with the help of a vice. My door locks now fly up and down with the push of a button!!! Excellent product, excellent price!!! Thanks Gruven!!!
--- Response from GruvenParts ---
Thanks Tim, we appreciate the review. Please note that the gear removal is even easier to accomplish if you use a small gear puller intended for a 2mm shaft. You can use a vice as well, just be careful not to chip the gear teeth. Please let us know if you need anything, your door lock motors should work for a very long time now !
Posted by DI on 7th Jul 2015
I purchased 2 units , only installed one so far, you have to get a high quality tap otherwise it will not work, the 8-32 tap works perfect, just be careful to drill the hole on center, overall the process was not too hard, it will help with if you can see some pictures or a video. I will try to post some pictures on YouTube in a video format.
Posted by Unknown on 6th Jul 2015
I am so happy with this replacement motor I dont know what to say. I will say that I went the drill and tap route when it came to reassembly. I like the idea of being able to take it back apart easily. I will be placing a small spot weld on the other side of the rivet to prevent it from spinning though.
Posted by Al on 2nd Jul 2015
I forgot and did a whole lot of head scratching as too why my lock and unlock was backwards. Still have to install the passenger side, but the new motor in the driver's side works like a champ.
-- Response --
Thanks for the review. Yes please remember that motors marked "CW" are Drivers Side and motors marked "CCW" are passenger side.
Posted by Tony on 27th Jun 2015
Exactly what I wanted. I couldn't find aftermarket rear ones. I purchased the motor only. Only problem I had was drilling the holes out for the 6-32 screws. Get a good set of drill bits too. Start small and go up since these are hard rivets. Would of been nice to include the screws since there are only 2 needed. I think I used around 3/8" long. I think a video on your website would of made it easier. Overall....Perfect fit and worked. Hopefully it last. Saved $$. Thanks.
-- Response --
Thanks Tony, we are working on a video to show how this is done. I appreciate your comments.
Paul@GruvenParts.com
Posted by Chuck on 24th Jun 2015
I purchased 2 new motors with gears installed and they worked perfect. I saved over $300 dollars from what the dealer wanted for front and back passenger door actuators on a 2008 Suburban. I will tell everyone I know having the same problem about this product. Thanks
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