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Product Description
*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
*** PLEASE NOTE : For 2014 Models, Please Email Us The Actuator Part Number Before Ordering ! There was a VIN split in 2014. The new style 2014+ Motors Can Be Ordered Here -- Click Here --
As many of you already know, the door lock actuators in your 2007-2014 GM vehicle are very unreliable. Most units suffer motor failures which can make locking and unlocking the vehicle very cumbersome. GruvenParts.com has been repairing the faulty GM door lock actuators since 2010. Our new motor is a reliable high torque design with factory correct wiring inputs. Our motor has passed rigorous 35,000 lock/unlock cycle testing runs conducted continuously over the span of 2 full weeks. Please read the repair options listed below before ordering.
Repair Options
- Buy Motor Only and Install it Yourself and Save $$. You can also choose to have the motor shipped with a new brass pinion gear preinstalled - this will save you the hassle of removing the old gear and pressing it onto the the new motor shaft. Reference the repair instructions listed at the bottom of this page or watch the youtube installation video. Choose passenger side or drivers side from the drop down menu. The motors are the same front to back, but they are different drivers side to passenger side.
- Send Us Your Actuator for us to Repair : Send your actuator along with copy of your invoice (address will be provided after order). We will perform the repair and send it back to you, usually within 1-2 weeks
- If you are located near Atlanta, we have a Certified GM Master Technician who can perform the installation on your vehicle. Please email Paul@GruvenParts.com for details.
Eligible Models
2007-2014 GM models including Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade, Silverado, Suburban, Sierra, Avalanche (and others) as well as Malibu and Cadillac sedans using any of the following door lock actuator part numbers (and very likely many others):
25873487 25876390 15896625 25945737 15896626 25876389 25873488 25945736 20783850 25811735 25876386 25945752 25848878 25866299 25863021 25876382 25955017 22741770 22862025 25876384 25863019 25876388 15896624 25873485 25945754 20783852 25876393 25789215 25876394 25945741 25876387 25873486 25789213 25876385 25945738 25876391 20783859 15896628 25873490 25789219 25876397 25945749 25876383 22785476 22785607 25876451 25843164 22791036 22862238 25876521 25876380 20783844 25945746 25863017 25876398 20777854 20777855 25945739 15896627 25876392 20783860 25873489 25876536 22791011 19210210 25873490 13581405 22865521 25829641 25876452 20772313 20772312 22865519 25876463 22865520 25876451 20772311 25876462 22865518 25840363 20785785 25879295 22862245 22862244 22862238 22862242
Send In
Please Email : Paul@GruvenParts.com for the Send In Address
Please include a copy of your original order invoice and write either "CORE" or "SEND IN FOR REPAIR" on the package.
** Instructions for Installing Motor Yourself **
*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
To change out the motor yourself, do the following :
A. Drill off the 2 rivet heads holding the cable "L" bracket onto the actuator case and remove the cable "L" bracket. The actual rivets themselves stay in place, you are only machining off the rivet heads enough to get the L Bracket off. Some have just used a dremel tool with grinding bit to remove rivet head. Be careful not to damage the surrounding actuator structure. ** Users Note ** Some have drilled the small pilot hole into the rivet BEFORE machining off the rivet head. This can help to ensure the rivet doesnt spin while drilling the pilot hole, since the rivet head is still there to hold it in place. We machine the head of rivet off 1st, but you could also machine pilot hole 1st, either way is acceptable.
B. Put actuator in the locked position (as if door was shut) and remove the torx screws around the perimeter of the case. This step is important because it moves the internal mechanism out of the way and allows for easier removal and installation of the case halves.
C. Remove the top of the case (the motor will come with it). Unplug motor from top case.
D. (Skip this step if buying motor with pinion gear preinstalled). Use a small gear puller (like the Walkera W010 Gear Pinion Puller) to remove the brass pinion gear from the old motor. A puller for 2mm shaft works well, these are readily available on Amazon.com. You can also place the old motor in a vice, and use a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab the back of the gear while tapping with a small hammer to push the gear off the shaft. Do not damage the brass gear as it is reused. Press old gear onto new motor shaft using vice or arbor press.
E. Place the new motor/gear back into the actuator and ensure it meshes with the mating spur gear. Ensure all metal filings are removed from the inside of the case. Please note : our motors marked "CW" go in the drivers side actuators and "CCW" go in the passenger side actuators. It is the same motor front to back, the only difference is side - passenger side is CCW while drivers side is CW.
F. Reinstall top half of actuator case.
G. Reinstall perimeter torx screws. Do not over-torque them, just snug them up firmly.
H. Reattach cable "L" bracket. This can be done via drilling/tapping the remaining rivet shank and installing small screws/washers (we use #6-32 screws with flat washers and loctite). Or you can spot weld the bracket back onto the rivet shank. Some others have used #8-32 screws as this provides a slightly larger tap. Please do not use cheap taps here, the rivet is high strength steel so a high quality tap is recommended. If you own a 4 door, you will be doing this 4 times so invest in a good tap to prevent breaking the tap in the rivet. Tap SLOW using back/forth method until the threads are sufficiently deep, 1/4-1/2" is plenty. Use loctite on the small screws to prevent the L Bracket from becoming dislodged later. As a final suggestion on this step - some have just drilled a shallow hole into the rivet shank and used a self tapping metal screw to bite into the hole. This works as well, and saves you the trouble of tapping a hole into the rivet shank.
*** After the install ***
Please do not reinstall the interior door panel until you have successfully operated the mechanism several dozen times to ensure all was put back together correctly. We recommend installing the repaired actuator, lowering the window, then closing the door. Verify both the interior and exterior door release handles function properly. Then, start the engine, and ensure the vehicle recognizes the door is shut (doesn’t keep the dome light on, or chiming). Operate the power locks a dozen or so times, the lock should lock and unlock rapidly with a forceful "snap" as it moves (the way it did when it was new). Only then should you finalize installation by reinstalling the door panel.
Product Reviews
Previous | Showing reviews 151-160 of 228 | Next
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Installed two
Posted by Steve on 12th Oct 2015
I found this an economical way to repair what GM should be changing after all these years. I did not find it as easy as some indicated and originally I missed attaching the arm that goes to the key lock on the front door. Once I understood however, I went back and corrected it. I also found that the rivets tended to twist when drilling an threading. Probably caused by the heat of drilling. I just used self threading screws and that worked well. I hoping these will last a long time as it looked like the rear door had already been replaced once.
-- response --
Steve, thanks for this write up and glad you were able to accomplish the repair. As a tip, you could try drilling the pilot hole into the rivet head BEFORE removing the rivet head. This will keep the rivet in place while that pilot hole is drilled. Then remove the head, then as you smartly chose, install self tapping screw (to prevent the need to tapping actual threads). This will last a long long time, keep us posted !
Paul@GruvenParts.com
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Why did I wait two years..
Posted by Edwin on 12th Oct 2015
Over the weekend I changed out the two front door locks on my 3500 crew cab. The task was not difficult in my opinion, just take your time and be careful when reinstalling the cover of the actuator to make-sure all the parts are still in alignment. I chose to reattach the metal bracket with a quick little spot weld. Worked like a champ. I"m not sure how long the task took, I tend to get side tracked and take care of other maintenance issues, such as cleaning, lubricating, adjusting, while i'm doing a task.
-- response --
Thanks Edwin. Good job and this will cure the issue for a long long time !
As a tip, please rotate the latch to the shut position BEFORE disassembling/reassembling. Doing this moves the internal mechanism away from the case halves and thus makes it much easier to mate the 2 halves without disturbing the mechanism itself.
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2009 Chevy Malibu
Posted by Unknown on 17th Sep 2015
Ordered these replacement motors and it didn't take long to install. They worked perfect!
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Thanks for making this item available so I didn't have to replace a lot of parts that didn't need to be replaced and thus saving me a lot of money
Posted by Unknown on 13th Sep 2015
Worked fine and solved my door lock issue.
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Fast shipping, excellent motors
Posted by FREDY LOPEZ on 7th Sep 2015
Paul, thanks for the fast shipping. I already changed the 4 motors and the actuators work excellent now. I recommend these motors for replacement.
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Door actuators for 2008 Silverado
Posted by Wayne Jones on 4th Sep 2015
I ordered both right and left side motors with gears for my 2008 Silverado 1500. I talked with Paul and he advised that I drill and tap the rivets before removing the rivet heads, which I did with a larger drill bit. Good quality drill bit and tap is a must. Anyone mechanically inclined should be able to replace the actuator motors with a little time. I had both replaced and working great in about 3.5 hours and saved around $175.00.
I called and spoke with Paul before I made the order and also after I received the parts, each time Paul was very helpful.
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Success!!!!!!
Posted by Steve on 3rd Sep 2015
Did my 1st two repairs of the four locks that will be required (Damn you GM!). One was a CW & the other a CCW. Paul had no gears available at the time so I opted for the "motor only" repair. The recommended Walkera W010 gear puller was about $15 from Amazon and did a TERRIFIC job. Repressing the gears onto the new motor shafts went easily with channel locks.
The front door lock actuator remove/repair/install procedure is somewhat different than the rear door due to differences in the doors. The window & rail location, routing of the vertical "lock rod" and general ease of access differ from front to rear doors.
Sage advise: USE A HIGH QUALITY TAP & DRILL!! I used a Irwin 3/8" drill/6-32 tap sold as a kit at Lowes; the tap broke twice. I bought an Irwin 6-32 tap only labeled "High Carbon Steel Plug Tap" (item #8018) from Ace Hardware which tapped out 4 holes so far no problem.
Only problem has been my front passenger door not longer illuminates the cabin lighting when door is opened although the rear driver side door functions fine in that regard. Not sure what I may have done to the front right door lock actuator to cause this.
Regardless, I highly recommend the motors. They work well and will save you $$$$$$$.
-- response --
Thanks for the review Steve. Regarding the interior light issue, there are 2 micro switches within the actuator. Please make sure the parts within the actuator are aligned properly so the microswitches function correctly. Call me if you need to, I can certainly help. Thank for experience with the taps. Others have simply drilled pilot hole (no threads) and used appropriately sized self tapping screws to reattach bracket. This method doesnt require a tap at all.
Paul
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Cheap alternative to buying new actuators
Posted by Bart on 18th Aug 2015
The installation is not a simple project that only takes a few minutes. However, the second one took a lot less time to do, especially because I started with the front driver's side door which has an extra linkage for the key-lock mechanism. If you attempt this, you must have some skill with hand tools, a drill, and be able to either tap threads or weld in order to get the L-bracket back on the actuator. If you do have these skills, it's not too bad if you follow the instructions that many people have written in their reviews. It's definitely a better alternative than paying for the same actuator again from GM with the same garbage motor.
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Second replacement
Posted by Gary B. on 8th Aug 2015
Having done this about 14 months ago on another vehicle, it went a little faster after reading other reviews which have since been published. I cut off rivet heads with my dremel after I first drilled them out. It makes it a lot easier this way.
Use a high quality drill bit and tap; I used 8-32 x3/8 machine screws this time. They are heavier and there is less chance of breaking one off in the drilled/tapped hole. I highly recommend using a drill press if you have access to one, as the holes will be straight. I used a piece of wood that was cut out for the metal lip for the actuator to fit in, as it won't lay flat on the table of the press as the lip sticks out, making it rock back and forth.
Test your motor before completing the install; with the cover off the actuator, turn it over and you'll see two prongs sticking down from the inside of the cover. Install the motor onto the prongs and test the lock/unlock feature with your drivers side door controls. It should spin with plenty of power, so hold it place with your finger.
The motor I received initially this time did not spin and I contacted Paul and he promptly sent out a replacement which worked perfectly. It was a great gesture on his part to send me another motor and I sent back the first one.
I can't thank him enough for his company and helping the customer replace original actuators which can fail after a few years with a motor that I can depend on.
--- Response from GruvenParts ---
Thanks Gary for posting your review. Im glad you got the mechanism working and sorry for the issue with 1st motor. It looks like they possibly drove the mail truck over the package and crushed the motor. Anyways please use the locks as frequently as possible and if there is ever an issue please call or email. And thanks for posting more guidance on the removal and replacement, 8/32 screws work very well too.
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cost effective solutions to my problem
Posted by Unknown on 3rd Aug 2015
Very happy to have this as a solution to the door lock problem. I like that I was able to replace only the component that was bad vs the entire assembly. There isn't enough of that these days.
Motor went in easily and exactly as described in the instructions. I supported the back side of the gear and used a punch to five it off the old motor, no problem.
Good product, good price, great service!