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Product Description
*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
*** PLEASE NOTE : For 2014 Models, Please Email Us The Actuator Part Number Before Ordering ! There was a VIN split in 2014. The new style 2014+ Motors Can Be Ordered Here -- Click Here --
As many of you already know, the door lock actuators in your 2007-2014 GM vehicle are very unreliable. Most units suffer motor failures which can make locking and unlocking the vehicle very cumbersome. GruvenParts.com has been repairing the faulty GM door lock actuators since 2010. Our new motor is a reliable high torque design with factory correct wiring inputs. Our motor has passed rigorous 35,000 lock/unlock cycle testing runs conducted continuously over the span of 2 full weeks. Please read the repair options listed below before ordering.
Repair Options
- Buy Motor Only and Install it Yourself and Save $$. You can also choose to have the motor shipped with a new brass pinion gear preinstalled - this will save you the hassle of removing the old gear and pressing it onto the the new motor shaft. Reference the repair instructions listed at the bottom of this page or watch the youtube installation video. Choose passenger side or drivers side from the drop down menu. The motors are the same front to back, but they are different drivers side to passenger side.
- Send Us Your Actuator for us to Repair : Send your actuator along with copy of your invoice (address will be provided after order). We will perform the repair and send it back to you, usually within 1-2 weeks
- If you are located near Atlanta, we have a Certified GM Master Technician who can perform the installation on your vehicle. Please email Paul@GruvenParts.com for details.
Eligible Models
2007-2014 GM models including Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade, Silverado, Suburban, Sierra, Avalanche (and others) as well as Malibu and Cadillac sedans using any of the following door lock actuator part numbers (and very likely many others):
25873487 25876390 15896625 25945737 15896626 25876389 25873488 25945736 20783850 25811735 25876386 25945752 25848878 25866299 25863021 25876382 25955017 22741770 22862025 25876384 25863019 25876388 15896624 25873485 25945754 20783852 25876393 25789215 25876394 25945741 25876387 25873486 25789213 25876385 25945738 25876391 20783859 15896628 25873490 25789219 25876397 25945749 25876383 22785476 22785607 25876451 25843164 22791036 22862238 25876521 25876380 20783844 25945746 25863017 25876398 20777854 20777855 25945739 15896627 25876392 20783860 25873489 25876536 22791011 19210210 25873490 13581405 22865521 25829641 25876452 20772313 20772312 22865519 25876463 22865520 25876451 20772311 25876462 22865518 25840363 20785785 25879295 22862245 22862244 22862238 22862242
Send In
Please Email : Paul@GruvenParts.com for the Send In Address
Please include a copy of your original order invoice and write either "CORE" or "SEND IN FOR REPAIR" on the package.
** Instructions for Installing Motor Yourself **
*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
To change out the motor yourself, do the following :
A. Drill off the 2 rivet heads holding the cable "L" bracket onto the actuator case and remove the cable "L" bracket. The actual rivets themselves stay in place, you are only machining off the rivet heads enough to get the L Bracket off. Some have just used a dremel tool with grinding bit to remove rivet head. Be careful not to damage the surrounding actuator structure. ** Users Note ** Some have drilled the small pilot hole into the rivet BEFORE machining off the rivet head. This can help to ensure the rivet doesnt spin while drilling the pilot hole, since the rivet head is still there to hold it in place. We machine the head of rivet off 1st, but you could also machine pilot hole 1st, either way is acceptable.
B. Put actuator in the locked position (as if door was shut) and remove the torx screws around the perimeter of the case. This step is important because it moves the internal mechanism out of the way and allows for easier removal and installation of the case halves.
C. Remove the top of the case (the motor will come with it). Unplug motor from top case.
D. (Skip this step if buying motor with pinion gear preinstalled). Use a small gear puller (like the Walkera W010 Gear Pinion Puller) to remove the brass pinion gear from the old motor. A puller for 2mm shaft works well, these are readily available on Amazon.com. You can also place the old motor in a vice, and use a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab the back of the gear while tapping with a small hammer to push the gear off the shaft. Do not damage the brass gear as it is reused. Press old gear onto new motor shaft using vice or arbor press.
E. Place the new motor/gear back into the actuator and ensure it meshes with the mating spur gear. Ensure all metal filings are removed from the inside of the case. Please note : our motors marked "CW" go in the drivers side actuators and "CCW" go in the passenger side actuators. It is the same motor front to back, the only difference is side - passenger side is CCW while drivers side is CW.
F. Reinstall top half of actuator case.
G. Reinstall perimeter torx screws. Do not over-torque them, just snug them up firmly.
H. Reattach cable "L" bracket. This can be done via drilling/tapping the remaining rivet shank and installing small screws/washers (we use #6-32 screws with flat washers and loctite). Or you can spot weld the bracket back onto the rivet shank. Some others have used #8-32 screws as this provides a slightly larger tap. Please do not use cheap taps here, the rivet is high strength steel so a high quality tap is recommended. If you own a 4 door, you will be doing this 4 times so invest in a good tap to prevent breaking the tap in the rivet. Tap SLOW using back/forth method until the threads are sufficiently deep, 1/4-1/2" is plenty. Use loctite on the small screws to prevent the L Bracket from becoming dislodged later. As a final suggestion on this step - some have just drilled a shallow hole into the rivet shank and used a self tapping metal screw to bite into the hole. This works as well, and saves you the trouble of tapping a hole into the rivet shank.
*** After the install ***
Please do not reinstall the interior door panel until you have successfully operated the mechanism several dozen times to ensure all was put back together correctly. We recommend installing the repaired actuator, lowering the window, then closing the door. Verify both the interior and exterior door release handles function properly. Then, start the engine, and ensure the vehicle recognizes the door is shut (doesn’t keep the dome light on, or chiming). Operate the power locks a dozen or so times, the lock should lock and unlock rapidly with a forceful "snap" as it moves (the way it did when it was new). Only then should you finalize installation by reinstalling the door panel.
Product Reviews
Previous | Showing reviews 91-100 of 228 | Next
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Good experience AND saved money. '08 Silverado rear left.
Posted by abe on 21st Nov 2016
Replacement motor works well. Well done with the video instructions! They provided all the necessary insight and confidence. Some advice to other 'novice mechanics' attempting the same: 1. double check bore size for your self-tapping screws. 2. Use a drill press and patience.
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2008 SUBURBAN
Posted by Dean G Tryon on 18th Nov 2016
Could not have done it myself without the great video. Thanks.
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Be careful what you order
Posted by Jerry Collins on 11th Nov 2016
When ordering the motors make SURE YOU order the driver or passenger side, I ordered two drivers and I needed one for each side, but the process of installing was easy if you have have the right tools, drills, taps and means to grind the head of the rivets off, I used a die grinder and a burr bit worked great.
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Very good website and customer service
Posted by JRMJR on 30th Oct 2016
I ordered just the motor for $25.00 which is expensive for a little motor in my view but it beat the hell out of buying a replacement actuator. The website had very clear instructions along with the video; read and view it all so you may make the best choice for yourself. The gear from my old motor was fairly easy to remove and install on new motor per instructions. The trickiest part of the job was drilling out the rivets, I had some difficulty and had to use #8 self tapping screws when I put it back together as the 1/8" drill bit made the hole too large for a #6. Put it all back together and now in business with a fully operational door lock...thank you, I will be back if the need arrives...
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Great option for GM door lock repair.
Posted by RLewis on 24th Oct 2016
This option requires removal of rivet heads (2) and drilling 5/8” deep holes (2) one into each rivet. The use of self-tapping screws, are used to hold the metal bracket in place after the rivet heads are removed and holes drilled. I used my air compressor, a small grinder (similar to a Dremel tool) for grinding off the rivet heads. I also used a mini drill press to drill the holes in the rivets, once the heads were removed. The first door I did was the driver’s door, which required an extra step beyond that of the video. it included the removal and reinstallation of the door key lock rod. Once the first door was completed, the others motors were replaced at a much quicker rate. This procedure requires some skill which obviously increases with each individual successful completion. Note of caution… I tried taping and drilling the holes for screws, but found that the self-taping screws were the only way to go! Good Luck with your project… if you’re like me at all, you will find the results will make you exceptional happy to once again have working locks!
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Relatively easy repair for bad GM DC motors
Posted by Don on 21st Oct 2016
Have replaced 2 of planned 3 motors and both rear doors are working better then new. The motors provided are clearly stronger and of better quality. The only issue I have was getting good connections to the motor inside the case when closing them up. I have learned to test them by plugging in the electrical harness BEFORE going through re-installation of the door lock unit inside the door. I was very careful with closing the unit back up and alignment of all the parts. Anything out of position may cause a bad connection with the contacts to the motor. I also have drilled the rivet out using a #34 drill and tapped the holes using a 6-32 screw tap. This makes it easier to get the sheetmetal screw in, The rivets are work-hardened and good drill bits are a must. Get a few extra, too. Drill on a drill press if you can at about 600rpm and use a drop if oil.
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works perfect
Posted by Wayne Lenham on 12th Oct 2016
Bought a 09 suburban as is and within days both rear locks failed. After some research I decided to give Gruvin a try. Well I watched the video and followed the procedure and they just worked perfect.
I would recommend anyone trying this to use a drill press if possible. I broke a drill bit off in the hole and had a tough time getting it out. Once done though they work great and I plan on changing the other two doors soon just to prevent problems. Do not be afraid to do this, if you know what a socket and screwdriver are you can do this repair. Thanks GruvenParts for an affordable permanent fix to this problem.
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Success!
Posted by James on 11th Oct 2016
Unless you are an extremely well trained and creative mechanic, you will never figure this out without carefully watching the video. This is brain surgery! But, the method shown in the video led me to success with only one snag. My drill bits were not strong enough. You need a very hard drill bit, and it still may break -- get two high quality top grade bits, and go slow -- and use an occasional drop of oil as a cutting aid.
-- Response --
James, glad you had success. As you mention, good high quality drill bits are required. But this is not brain surgery, you are aiming to drill pilot holes in each rivet about 1/4" deep. From there, the sheet metal screw can tap its own threads, so you should never break a drill bit off unless you are putting extreme side load on the bit.
I usually start with a very small bit to get a pilot hole going, then switch to main size bit for exact centering.
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Works like a new lock
Posted by Larry on 17th Sep 2016
I had two rear door locks on my 2009 Chevy that were not working.
I decided to try the Gruven replacement motor on one door to see if it would do the job and save me some money.
The install was not too hard.
Watch the video and read the instructions.
The only problem I ran into was that the truck wouldn't recognize that the door was shut so, I ended up having to remove - reopen - reseat - reinstall the door lock actuator 3-4 times before I finally got everything just right .... there is a tiny micro-switch in there that must be aligned just right or the door sensor will not work properly.
Overall ... this is a great way to repair your door locks and save yourself over $150 for a new actuator.
I will be ordering another one to repair the other door.
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Saved $450 per door.
Posted by Tom M on 2nd Sep 2016
Romote door locks failed for the second time on '08 Silverado. First ime was under warranty. Did not want to spend $200 per door for GM parts. Ordered motors and watched install video. Worst part was drill and tapping rivets. Need to tell how to get link from lock arm on driver side off, took a little while to figure out. Both doors done in about 4 hours. Was told this would be about $800 at GM shop, cost me $70. Thank you .
-- response from GruvenParts --
Thanks Tom we appreciate the review and Im glad you have it well sorted out. Please note you do not need to tap the threads into the rivets, as the screws shown in the video will cut their own threads during install. This should make the job much faster. Let us know if you have any questions and enjoy your fully functioning door locks in a GREAT truck !