*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
*** PLEASE NOTE : For 2014 Models, Please Email Us The Actuator Part Number Before Ordering ! There was a VIN split in 2014. The new style 2014+ Motors Can Be Ordered Here -- Click Here --
As many of you already know, the door lock actuators in your 2007-2014 GM vehicle are very unreliable. Most units suffer motor failures which can make locking and unlocking the vehicle very cumbersome. GruvenParts.com has been repairing the faulty GM door lock actuators since 2010. Our new motor is a reliable high torque design with factory correct wiring inputs. Our motor has passed rigorous 35,000 lock/unlock cycle testing runs conducted continuously over the span of 2 full weeks. Please read the repair options listed below before ordering.
Repair Options
Eligible Models
2007-2014 GM models including Tahoe, Yukon, Escalade, Silverado, Suburban, Sierra, Avalanche (and others) as well as Malibu and Cadillac sedans using any of the following door lock actuator part numbers (and very likely many others):
25873487 25876390 15896625 25945737 15896626 25876389 25873488 25945736 20783850 25811735 25876386 25945752 25848878 25866299 25863021 25876382 25955017 22741770 22862025 25876384 25863019 25876388 15896624 25873485 25945754 20783852 25876393 25789215 25876394 25945741 25876387 25873486 25789213 25876385 25945738 25876391 20783859 15896628 25873490 25789219 25876397 25945749 25876383 22785476 22785607 25876451 25843164 22791036 22862238 25876521 25876380 20783844 25945746 25863017 25876398 20777854 20777855 25945739 15896627 25876392 20783860 25873489 25876536 22791011 19210210 25873490 13581405 22865521 25829641 25876452 20772313 20772312 22865519 25876463 22865520 25876451 20772311 25876462 22865518 25840363 20785785 25879295 22862245 22862244 22862238 22862242
Send In
Please Email : Paul@GruvenParts.com for the Send In Address
Please include a copy of your original order invoice and write either "CORE" or "SEND IN FOR REPAIR" on the package.
** Instructions for Installing Motor Yourself **
*** Click Here For the Installation Video !! *** (thanks Fernando!)
To change out the motor yourself, do the following :
A. Drill off the 2 rivet heads holding the cable "L" bracket onto the actuator case and remove the cable "L" bracket. The actual rivets themselves stay in place, you are only machining off the rivet heads enough to get the L Bracket off. Some have just used a dremel tool with grinding bit to remove rivet head. Be careful not to damage the surrounding actuator structure. ** Users Note ** Some have drilled the small pilot hole into the rivet BEFORE machining off the rivet head. This can help to ensure the rivet doesnt spin while drilling the pilot hole, since the rivet head is still there to hold it in place. We machine the head of rivet off 1st, but you could also machine pilot hole 1st, either way is acceptable.
B. Put actuator in the locked position (as if door was shut) and remove the torx screws around the perimeter of the case. This step is important because it moves the internal mechanism out of the way and allows for easier removal and installation of the case halves.
C. Remove the top of the case (the motor will come with it). Unplug motor from top case.
D. (Skip this step if buying motor with pinion gear preinstalled). Use a small gear puller (like the Walkera W010 Gear Pinion Puller) to remove the brass pinion gear from the old motor. A puller for 2mm shaft works well, these are readily available on Amazon.com. You can also place the old motor in a vice, and use a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab the back of the gear while tapping with a small hammer to push the gear off the shaft. Do not damage the brass gear as it is reused. Press old gear onto new motor shaft using vice or arbor press.
E. Place the new motor/gear back into the actuator and ensure it meshes with the mating spur gear. Ensure all metal filings are removed from the inside of the case. Please note : our motors marked "CW" go in the drivers side actuators and "CCW" go in the passenger side actuators. It is the same motor front to back, the only difference is side - passenger side is CCW while drivers side is CW.
F. Reinstall top half of actuator case.
G. Reinstall perimeter torx screws. Do not over-torque them, just snug them up firmly.
H. Reattach cable "L" bracket. This can be done via drilling/tapping the remaining rivet shank and installing small screws/washers (we use #6-32 screws with flat washers and loctite). Or you can spot weld the bracket back onto the rivet shank. Some others have used #8-32 screws as this provides a slightly larger tap. Please do not use cheap taps here, the rivet is high strength steel so a high quality tap is recommended. If you own a 4 door, you will be doing this 4 times so invest in a good tap to prevent breaking the tap in the rivet. Tap SLOW using back/forth method until the threads are sufficiently deep, 1/4-1/2" is plenty. Use loctite on the small screws to prevent the L Bracket from becoming dislodged later. As a final suggestion on this step - some have just drilled a shallow hole into the rivet shank and used a self tapping metal screw to bite into the hole. This works as well, and saves you the trouble of tapping a hole into the rivet shank.
*** After the install ***
Please do not reinstall the interior door panel until you have successfully operated the mechanism several dozen times to ensure all was put back together correctly. We recommend installing the repaired actuator, lowering the window, then closing the door. Verify both the interior and exterior door release handles function properly. Then, start the engine, and ensure the vehicle recognizes the door is shut (doesn’t keep the dome light on, or chiming). Operate the power locks a dozen or so times, the lock should lock and unlock rapidly with a forceful "snap" as it moves (the way it did when it was new). Only then should you finalize installation by reinstalling the door panel.
Showing reviews 1-10 of 228 | Next
Posted by DANIEL LANG on 18th Sep 2022
My Denali was having issue with all my doors not locking. I was just going to replace the lock actuators like everyone does. I found this site and thought why not give it try. The work that was done is flawless. The lock actuators work perfectly now. No issues at all. Do not hesitate to send you lock actuators in to have this done. You will not be disappointed.
Posted by Unknown on 15th Jul 2022
Great product and instructions
Posted by Ricky on 8th May 2022
Good idea to save money
Posted by Doug Schenk on 30th Nov 2021
Looking foreword to installing them. Weather has been bad here.
Posted by Robert on 23rd Oct 2020
The replacement door lock motor for my 2008 Chevy Silverado was a very welcome option compared to needing to buy the entire assembly from GM. If you have some mechanical ability to remove the door panel and then drill out the factory rivets from the lock actuator, I would recommend this as a repair option. Just follow the video that is provided on the website. After about 45 days, the lock works great.
Posted by lynn gated on 16th Oct 2020
Power door lock motor. Needed instructions, not provided. Managed to git er done. Saved a bunch of money. Happy with results. Thanks.
-- response --
Lynn - thanks for review. We do have step by step instructions posted on the site product page. You basically remove the actuator as per youtube videos which show how to remove/replace the actuator on your vehicle. Once actuator is out, rather than replacing it, just remove the torx screws holding the case halves together, pop old motor out, slide the gear off the old motor, place it onto the new motor, drop in the new motor, and bolt case halve back together. This process is very easy < 5 minutes once actuator is out. Thanks
Paul
Posted by Miguel Moreno on 5th Aug 2020
My locks seemed to be loosing power on my 2009 Silverado and would sometimes not fully actuate. I saved $100 by replacing the small motor instead of the entire assembly and now they work just like new!
Posted by Doug on 23rd Jul 2020
So, this is the 2nd lock motor install, both on the passenger side of my 08 Tahoe. 1st one was the rear now the front door. The motors are strong as hell. The install video is “almost” spot on but I did notice a couple discrepancies this time. The first one took the wind out of my sails until I figured it out. In the video after the new motor is installed and the actuator is put back in the door & plugged in the guy tells you to test it with the remote & of course in the video his works fine but mine.....nothing! After taking it all apart to make sure the motor pins weren’t bent & that it passed a continuity test I realized he hadn’t told the viewer to also plug in all the wiring harnesses for the door panel. Once that was done everything worked like a charm. The second issue I had may be specific to my vehicle and is more of a nit. The inside door lock cable doesn’t actually go thru the hole in the felt sound barrier, it goes over the top and is held in place with the 2 yellow clips (provided they’re not broken).
A couple helpful tips: before you start grinding away at the rivets cover the whole face of the actuator with painters tape to keep all the metal dust out of it & to make it easier to clean. And finally this one everyone will eventually figure out but maybe I’ll save you some aggravation. When reinstalling the door panel the top of the door has 2 channels. The panel clips over ‘both’ of the channels not just the first one. Don’t be like me and screw with it for 30 minutes in 100 degree heat with no shade before you look at the drivers door for reference.
Posted by Gary B. on 14th Jul 2020
This was my third door lock actuator motor I've done, so I figured no sweat on this one. Previously replaced two in an older Suburban; 6/14 & 8/15 on both rear doors. I was replacing one in my 2009 Silverado, and when I removed the lock mechanism, low and behold, the rivets had been ground off and replaced with screws! Saved a lot of time for me. I bought the truck used in 2012, with only 4900 miles on the odometer, so someone had replaced the motor within the first three years, and doubt it was a Gruven part. The truck has 82,750 miles on it, and I plan on keeping it for awhile longer. Thanks a lot Paul, for making a superb replacement part!
Posted by Steve Cain on 2nd Jul 2020
I have owned my 2009 Suburban for 3 1/2 years. Bought it with 150,000 miles on it. I was very annoyed with the rear locks working intermittently. It wasn't much of a deal since I mainly drove alone. It seemed it was an issue when my wife and kids or friends were going somewhere. I had turned into it one time trying to see if I could fix it with no luck. Got to the point where I was going to buy new actuators. During my search I hit gold. I found this replacement motor. I read other reviews and figured for the price it was worth a shot and I was right. The installation video was awesome and spot on. Made the job easy. Got one done this passed Sunday and will be doing the other this weekend.
Showing reviews 1-10 of 228 | Next
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